Sunday, November 19, 2017

The Church

From St. Patrick's to The Church Bar & Restaurant for lunch. Yep, that's right, Old St. Mary's, the Anglican church where John Wesley preached and Jonathan Swift worshipped, is now a popular restaurant.

Saturday, November 18, 2017

Swift & Wesley

Jonathan Swift and John Wesley are among the notables who have passed through St. Patrick's. Swift,  probably best known as the author of Gulliver's Travels once was dean of the cathedral and is interred there (above). The chalice Swift used to serve Holy Communion (below and left) now sits next to the replicas of the flagon and chalice used by John Wesley, the originals having been stolen. 

Thursday, November 16, 2017

Wednesday, November 15, 2017

Manchester Arena

I arrived at St. Patrick's Cathedral two days after the Manchester Arena bombing on May 22. In memory of those who died, this member of the cathedral's staff climbed into the pulpit to invite those present to join her in prayer on behalf of the victims and their families. Many also lit candles.

Tuesday, November 14, 2017

St. Patrick's Cathedral

"Saint Patrick's Cathedral (Irish: Ard-Eaglais Naomh Pádraig) in Dublin, Ireland, founded in 1191, is the National Cathedral of the Church of Ireland. With its 43-metre (141 ft) spire, St. Patrick's is the tallest church in Ireland and the largest. Christ Church Cathedral, also a Church of Ireland cathedral in Dublin, is designated as the local Cathedral of the diocese of Dublin and Glendalough" (Wikipedia).

Monday, November 13, 2017

Political Lying

Arts & Humanities Research Institute
Trinity College
Dublin, Ireland

“Falsehood flies, and truth comes limping after it, so that when men come to be undeceived, it is too late; the jest is over, and the tale hath had its effect: like a man, who hath thought of a good repartee when the discourse is changed, or the company parted; or like a physician, who hath found out an infallible medicine, after the patient is dead." ~ from Political Lying by Jonathan Swift

Sunday, November 12, 2017

O'Connell Street

Upper O'Connell Street
Dublin, Ireland

Really, except for the accents, this could have been D. C. Heck! Even with their accents this could have been D.C., considering how many people in D.C. hail from the Emerald Isle.

The street "was widened, and renamed 'Sackville Street' (named after Lionel Sackville, 1st Duke of Dorset) in the late 1700s until 1924, when it was renamed in honour of Daniel O'Connell, a nationalist leader of the early 19th century, whose statue stands at the lower end of the street, facing O'Connell Bridge" (Wikipedia).

Saturday, November 11, 2017


"Hore Abbey (also Hoare Abbey, sometimes known as St.Mary's) is a ruined Cistercian monastery near the Rock of Cashel, County Tipperary, Republic of Ireland.

'Hore' is thought to derive from 'iubhair' – yew tree. The former Benedictine abbey at Hore was given to the Cistercians by Archbishop David MacCearbhaill (in 1270), who later entered the monastery. He endowed the Abbey generously with land, mills and other benefices previously belonging to the town. A story that is much cited by tour-guides is that he evicted the Benedictines after a dream that they were about to kill him. This is unlikely to be true and probably arises from the Archbishop's 'interference' with the commerce of the city of Cashel. His disfavour of the established orders in Cashel certainly caused local resentment. He was resented by some of the towns-people, being considered too much in favour of the Irish by the more Anglicised. This is evident in the objection by the thirty-eight local brewers to the levy of two flagons out of every brewing and in the murder of two monks who were visiting the town" (Wikipedia).

Friday, November 10, 2017

Hall of the Vicars Choral

"The Hall of the Vicars Choral was built in the fifteenth century. The vicars choral were laymen (sometimes minor canons) appointed to assist in chanting the cathedral services. At Cashel there were originally eight vicars choral with their own seal. This was later reduced to five honorary vicars choral who appointed singing-men as their deputies, a practice which continued until 1836. The restoration of the Hall was undertaken by the Office of Public Works as a project in connection with the European Architectural Heritage Year, 1975. It is now the building through which visitors enter the site" (

Monday, November 6, 2017

Rock of Cashel

"According to local mythology, the Rock of Cashel originated in the Devil's Bit, a mountain 20 miles (30 km) north of Cashel when St. Patrick banished Satan from a cave, resulting in the Rock's landing in Cashel. Cashel is reputed to be the site of the conversion of the King of Munster by St. Patrick in the 5th century" (Wikipedia).

"The Rock of Cashel was the traditional seat of the kings of Munster for several hundred years prior to the Norman invasion. In 1101, the King of Munster, Muirchertach Ua Briain, donated his fortress on the Rock to the Church. The picturesque complex has a character of its own and is one of the most remarkable collections of Celtic art and medieval architecture to be found anywhere in Europe. Few remnants of the early structures survive; the majority of buildings on the current site date from the 12th and 13th centuries" (Wikipedia).

Sunday, November 5, 2017

Saturday, November 4, 2017

Garden of Remembrance

You may not be able to read the inscription on the stone above. If not, then it's about a native of Kinsale, Kathleen Murphy, who created a garden on a prominent hill in County Cork dedicated to the firefighters who lost their lives in New York City on September 11, 2011. As an American visiting Ireland, I was quite moved to see some of my fellow Americans memorialized in this way.

Friday, November 3, 2017

Cobh Cathedral

"Dramatically perched on a hillside terrace above Cobh, this massive French Gothic Cathedral is out of all proportion to the town. Its most exceptional feature is the 47-bell carillon [very worth while video clip here], the largest in Ireland, with a range of four octaves. The biggest bell weighs a stonking 3440kg – about as much as a full-grown elephant! You can hear carillon recitals at 4.30pm on Sundays between May and September.

The cathedral, designed by EW Pugin, was begun in 1868 but not completed until 1915. Much of the funding was raised by nostalgic Irish communities in Australia and the USA" (Lonely Planet).

Thursday, November 2, 2017


"Second-Class accommodation and facilities on board the Titanic were the equivalent in comfort and space to many First-Class facilities on other ships of the time. Although the 2nd and 3rd-Class sections of the ship occupied a much smaller proportion of space overall than those of First-Class, there were several comfortable, large public rooms for passengers to enjoy.

Third-Class was also remarkably comfortable by the standards of the time. A Dining Saloon provided steerage passengers with simple but hearty meals thrice daily, at a time when many ships forced 3rd-Class passengers to bring their own food provisions for the voyage" (Wikipedia).

Wednesday, November 1, 2017


The pier where 123 passengers embarked upon the boat that ferried them out to the Titanic that awaited them at anchor in the Irish Channel. 

Tuesday, October 31, 2017


My guide through the Titanic exhibit in Cobh. If it seems strange that I take time to photograph these people it's because I genuinely appreciate the efforts they make to both master their subject and to present it in ways that will appeal to an incredibly varied audience repeatedly day after day.

Monday, October 30, 2017

Ticket Office

The original entrances to the White Star Line's ticket office where passengers waited to be ferried to the Titanic before its fateful encounter days later with an iceburg. The one above was for persons traveling economy. The one below was for first-class passengers. Today the office serves as a museum.

Sunday, October 29, 2017

Lusitania Peace Memorial

"Another tragically notable ship to be associated with the town, the Cunard passenger liner RMS Lusitania, was sunk by a German U-boat off the Old Head of Kinsale while en route from the US to Liverpool on 7 May 1915. 1,198 passengers died, while 700 were rescued. The survivors and the dead alike were brought to Cobh, and the bodies of over 100 who perished in the disaster lie buried in the Old Church Cemetery just north of the town. The Lusitania Peace Memorial is located in Casement Square, opposite the arched building housing the Cobh Library and Courthouse" (Wikipedia).

Saturday, October 28, 2017

Methodist Church

She's not been treated well, I'm afraid, the old Methodist church in Cobh.  

Once home to a thriving congregation, many who worshipped here eventually immigrated to the United States.

Having served other purposes since, including as a pub, the building is now awaiting a decision as to its future. 

Friday, October 27, 2017

Michael Martin

Meet. Dr. Michael Martin, author and historian as well as my guide through Cobh.

Thursday, October 26, 2017

Annie Moore

Statue of Annie Moore and her brothers on the quayside in Cobh, Ireland

"Moore arrived from County Cork, Ireland aboard the steamship called the Nevada on January 1, 1892. It was reported that her arrival was on her 15th birthday, but records in Ireland reveal that her birthday was in May and she was actually 17. Her brothers, Anthony and Philip, who journeyed with her, had just turned 15 and 12, respectively. As the first person to be processed at the newly opened facility, she was presented with an American $10 gold piece from an American Official, which is the equivalent of $267 in 2015 dollars accounting for inflation. From 1820 to 1920, more than 4 million people left their native shores of Ireland bound for the Port of New York and a new life in America. When Ellis Island officially opened on January 1, 1892, the first passenger registered through the now world-famous immigration station was a young Irish girl named Annie Moore. Annie departed from Queenstown (County Cork, Ireland) on December 20, 1891 aboard the S.S. Nevada, one of 148 steerage passengers. The trio would spend 12 days at sea (including Christmas Day), arriving in New York on Thursday evening, December 31. They were processed through Ellis Island the following morning, New Year's Day. All three children were soon reunited with their parents who were already living in New York" (Wikipedia).

Wednesday, October 25, 2017

Tuesday, October 24, 2017

Margaret Shineman

I can't tell you how much this saddened me. But I would have been sadder still if Margaret's true identity had not finally been discovered.

"Margaret Shineman was a Scottish native and naturalized United States citizen returning to Scotland with her newly-wed husband, James Shineman. Margaret and James were transfers from the ship Cameronia who were traveling to surprise Margaret's family. When the Cameronia was requisitioned by the British Admiralty, the Shinemans became second cabin passengers aboard Lusitania. Both Margaret and James were lost in the Lusitania disaster. Both of their bodies were recovered, hers was #3 by Kinsale and James was #18 by Doolin and Aran. Born Margaret McKenzie, Margaret was a native of Shieldaig, Scotland. She made her way to Oil City, Wyoming, where she found employment at a ranch. She met James Shineman, who had family in Illinois, and they were married on 19 April 1915. Margaret became a United States citizen upon their marriage. The Shinemans' trip on the Cameronia was to be their honeymoon, where they would see Margaret's family in Lochcarron, Scotland. Margaret's body is buried in the St. Multose Church in Kinsale, Ireland. James is buried at Carrigaholt, County Clare. Margaret's name is engraved as 'Margaret MacKenzie' on a World War I memorial in Torridon, Scotland" (

Monday, October 23, 2017

Shut In

It's actually a curious story how a Methodist (nonconformist) missionary and his family wound up interred in St. Multose's Church of Ireland cemetery, testament to the ecumenism of the early 20th century. A curious turn of phrase, too, with "eternally shut in". 

Sunday, October 22, 2017

St. Multose Church

St. Multose Church as seen from Desmond Castle

"Very close to the regional Museum is St Multose Church. St Multose founded a monastery here in the 6th century AD and this church is named for him. Built in 1190 (the oldest building in Kinsale) but with substantial alterations over the years, this remains an interesting example of Norman architecture and has remained in continuous use to the present day. Some interesting features include an inscription in Norman French, the Easter sepulchre, the Baptismal font, the carved memorials, and the reredos from the Galway chapel as well as the wooden Coat of Arms. The Southwell Memorial in Carrera marble, is the work of Arnold Quellin of London.

It was in this church that Prince Rupert was proclaimed Charles II as King, after hearing the news that Cromwell had had King Charles I executed in London. Prince Rupert’s fleet was at anchor in Kinsale harbour at the time.

In more recent times, Kinsale was the town from which the rescue operation of the Lusitania was conducted it is here that some of the victims of the tragic sinking of the liner are buried" (